Darwin for Dinner: Part Two
Our intrepid author faces certain attack by carnalus insatiabilus

Back on the bike it was an easy 92km (57 mile) run into my destination for that day, the camping and caravan park at Wycliffe Well.  The park had a good mention in the camping guide to outback Australia I carried and I certainly wasn't disappointed with the facilities.  I arrived around 4:30pm and had plenty of time to select a comfortable grassed area, pitch the tent and treat myself to a nice hot shower before nightfall.  I had a wander around the camping area and dropped in to say 'hi' to a few of the many people staying overnight in tents or caravans - this is one very popular place.  The camping park is motorcycle friendly with excellent facilities including meals, fuel and expanses of good lawn for camping.  I can highly recommend Wycliffe Well for the touring motorcyclist and you'll be made most welcome by the park's manager, Barbara.  Being a member of the Big 4 park chain in Australia, Wycliffe Well camping park can be contacted on Tel:08-8964-1966, email at info@wycliffe.com.au or through the website at http://www.wycliffe.com.au   That evening I had a good sleep with no road train noise from the nearby Stuart Highway.  Also, the main gates to the park are locked from 9pm to 6am and, with high fences surrounding the complex, no "visitors" can get up to mischief in the park grounds during the night.

After treating myself to a healthy bacon and eggs breakfast, plus filling the beastie with motion lotion for the day ahead, at 7:15am on Friday 19^th May I bid goodbye to the lovely Barbara and rolled out of Wycliffe Well onto the Stuart Highway.  Okay, this morning was going to be a cool one with broken clouds (I wish the government would repair them) preventing the morning's sun from warming the countryside.  Snug as a bug in my winter riding suit I went through the bike's routine warm-up procedure as I headed the 132km (82 miles) to Tennant Creek.

A distance of 11km (7 miles) north of Tennant Creek I visited a remarkable attraction of the Northern Territory, the Devil's Marbles National Park.  Born of coarse-grained granite rock beneath the earth's surface over 1,640 million years ago, the Devil's Marbles are steeped in fascination and mystery.  The local aboriginal people say that these large granite shapes, some weighing hundreds of tons, are the fossilized eggs of the Rainbow Serpent who once roamed the area.   Aboriginal Dreamtime stories of the Serpent can be found in many different locations in Northern Australia and today these granite formations remain as real "Devil Country" with sacred and mystical intrigue.

Part of the Devil's Marbles National Park

Around 9am I arrived at Three Ways Roadhouse, a major junction in the Northern Territory and a turning point for many travellers.  The Stuart Highway is the main north-south road through the Territory and Three Ways, at a point on the Stuart Highway 1,000km (622 miles) south of Darwin, is where the Barkly Highway intersects and runs due east 450km (279 miles) into Queensland.  This is a main connection for many travellers, with Darwin to the north and Townsville on the Queensland coast a distance of 1,400km (870 miles) to the east.  The facilities at Three Ways Roadhouse are quite good (fuel, dining, etc) and I checked out the camping area at the back of the complex, knowing I'd be coming back this way in a few day's time - again, the amenities being quite good for the camping motorcyclist.  If you're after a room and bed they have small units (dongers) and bunkhouse accommodation for a cheap price as well.  With the Ultra refueled and my nicotine/caffeine blood levels restored, at 10am I coasted back out onto the Stuart Highway, settled into the saddle and pointed the bike north.

The rest of Friday was simply a distance covering exercise.  I knew I wouldn't make Darwin's 1,000km distance during the hours of daylight but another Top End highlight, the thermal springs at Mataranka, were quite achievable at 580km (360 miles) from Three Ways.  So Friday rolled by in a succession of fuel and water stops with the temperature now climbing to the high 20'sC (90+F).  The roadhouses and/or towns of Renner Springs, Elliot, Dunmarra and Larrimah passed by as the day progressed.  Fuel availability is good in the Top End with service stations being an average of about 90km (56 miles) apart and the longest distances being about 200km (124 miles).  Most fuel stops encountered in South Australia and the Northern Territory are sign-posted, as you leave the roadhouse, with information on how far to the next fuel, mechanical service facilities and accommodation - a great idea that should be emulated by other states.

At 4:30pm I rolled into the Mataranka Homestead Resort (Tel:08-8975-4544) and organised camping arrangements for the night - quickly setting up Camp Barton-Burroughs (Mataranka) and entering the tent to change out of my dusty riding garments.  I donned my modest neck-to-knee bathing costume and retired immediately to the sanctity of the thermal springs where, executing a perfect forward one-and-a-half with pike with my usual consummate ease, I dove into its embracing tepidness.  Absolutely enthralling to say the least. A large 2.5m (8 feet) deep tiled pool with the temperature of a warm bath was just what I needed after four days in the saddle.  I relaxed in the warm crystal waters of the thermal pool and thought "it really was worth riding 4,000km to experience this".  But I had no idea on what was about to come……

As I was floating around the pool, enjoying the therapeutic warmth of its embrace, I became aware that a member of the fairer sex was swimming awfully close to my starboard quarter (nautical term: because of the dampened environment I was in). I changed course and started to swim across the pool, but soon realised my passage was blocked (now, I think that's a medical term).  Two other female bathers had positioned themselves strategically to prevent my forward progress.  Realising I was trapped in a naval version of Rommel's advanced pincer movement, I would have to rely on the wit and charm of my usual diplomatic approach in this situation.  So, after stimulating verbal intercourse with the ladies for a period of time I discovered they were visitors to our homeland from mother Britain; currently being halfway through their two month vacation in the colonies.

I was to learn in time that the months June to August inclusive are the mating season for the untamed hunter of the lone male motorcyclist in this part of the world - the voracious female backpacker of the genus carnalus insatiabilus common to parts of Canada, Germany and the United Kingdom.  I knew I'd have to keep my wits about me if I was going to come out of the Northern Territory jungles with my virtue still intact.  As a young gentleman of similar age to me left the tranquility of the pool, to dry himself and return to the camping area, I observed two of these foreign femme fatales stealthily move from the lagoon and follow him.  These creatures are so damn frightening - they will hunt singly or in packs and I was now seeing evidence that they will even leave the relative protection of rivers and waterholes to track their prey on land.  That evening past slowly as I spent a restless night in my tent, my fly screen zippers (not to mention all zippers) being secured tightly, as I lay in my sleeping bag ready to thwart any would-be attackers.

Camp Barton-Burroughs (Mataranka)

carnalus insatiabilus stalking its prey

Office and bistro/bar at Mataranka

Saturday the 20^th May and again I started the day with a hearty breakfast; lashings of cereal, ham, eggs, toast, jam and coffee at the Mataranka Homestead - all for $7!  At 9am I rolled out of the Homestead and headed north on the Stuart Highway. Well folks, from here I was only 420km (261 miles) from my destination - Darwin. By 10:00am, the day was really starting to warm up and I realised my arrival in Darwin would be around 2pm - a pretty warm part of the day.  So, I just took it easy, sat back and continued at a moderate 100kph, stopping every 80km and drinking at least 600ml (1 pint) of water.  I gradually left the towns of Katherine and Adelaide River behind as I rode from the arid, flat plains and into the hilly terrain to the south of Darwin.  At 1:30pm on the Saturday afternoon, around 55 hours riding time and 4,400km (2,735miles) from Sydney, I entered the southern suburbs and increased traffic of Darwin's outskirts.

I had strict instructions on entering Darwin to stop at the township of Coolalinga and ring Jeff to let him know I'd arrived.  He felt I'd have little to no chance of finding his address (absolutely correct, I was to learn) and 15 minutes later Jeff and my new sister-in-law, Angelika, turned up to greet me.  Arriving at their house a short time later I quickly unloaded the bike and changed into, shorts and T shirt - a more suitable mode of dress for the tropical conditions.  From there we retired to the back garden where we talked the afternoon away, telling each other amazing stories of our adventures since last meeting and revisiting old childhood memories.  I won't bore you with details of a long overdue reunion with my brother other than to say, following my gorging of one of his well renowned BBQ dinners, we talked well into the evening and early hours of Sunday morning.

Sunday morning dawned and after a leisurely breakfast Jeff took me on a guided tour of Darwin's many tourist highlights, including the harbour and beach areas. It's not hard to miss the many WWII sites around Darwin - the remains of damage inflicted by repeated Japanese air attacks on the city during 1942-43.  Actually the Northern Territory and Australian Federal governments have spent considerable funds to restore many of the WWII historical sites, including old air-strips and building remains alongside the Stuart Highway as you approach Darwin from the south.  We wandered around the Port, which is being used as a staging point for United Nations forces currently in East Timor.  You couldn't miss the combined defense force presence in the Port with military equipment being loaded onto the Royal Australian Navy transport vessel HMAS Tobruk for transfer to East Timor. Docked near the Tobruk were the futuristic looking high-speed catamaran HMAS Jervis Bay and a Portuguese destroyer to complete the convoy.

HMAS Tobruk being loaded at Darwin wharf

Jeff, wondering how he can pinch a vehicle for the bush

The city of Darwin is quite picturesque with many modern constructions set amongst palms and idyllic green lawns.  The city's modern history is spoken of as pre and post-Tracy, the destructive cyclone which struck without warning during the early hours of Christmas Day, 1974, resulting in a loss of 44 lives.  The city and surrounding suburbs were devastated and, thanks to a high defense force presence in the area at the time, they were able to immediately commence the evacuation of thousands of women and children to safer areas in Australia's south.  Such was the urgency of assistance for the people of Darwin that, political and military differences being put aside, the Soviet government flew in massive transport planes to evacuate the region.

Angelika and Jeff

Jeff with the family sedan in Darwin

Boeing B52G Stato-Fortress "Darwin's Pride"

One interesting attraction I'd planned to visit while in Darwin was the Aviation Museum alongside the Stuart Highway at Darwin Airport.  Now I'm no aviation fanatic but the highlight of the aviation museum is the very reason for its construction in the first place - the only Boeing B52 Strato-Fortress in Australia. Two aircraft that I've always had a deep admiration for are the Boeing B52 and the McDonnell Douglas F1-11; the F1-11 currently being in service with the Royal Australian Air Force and flying out of Amberley Air Base near Brisbane.  I've sat on my sister-in-law's back verandah in Brisbane on a number of occasions and watched the F1-11's flying over Brisbane, but a B52 I've never seen other than in books or movies.  I wasn't going to visit Darwin without seeing the only one in Oz.

Now I think the story goes like this - if not, then let me make it up for you.  Boeing Strato-Fortress B52G #92596 was built in 1959 and went into service with the USAF in December 1960.  The aircraft had served with the USAF during the Vietnam conflict and flown many 12 hour missions out of Anderson AFB, Guam; many of these sorties being over Hanoi.  The USAF Strategic Air Command were pulling their B52's out of Anderson in the early 1990's and an offer was made by the USAF of a complete B52G to the Australian Government.  During the time of the Vietnam war, including up till 1984, the USAF had military personnel based in Darwin and regularly flew B52's into and out of the RAAF air base there.  The offer to the Australian Government of one of the last B52's that SAC had in the western Pacific was a way of saying "thank you" to the Australian people.  So B52G #92596, basically one of the last to leave Anderson AFB, was flown by its normal flight crew from Guam to Darwin.  There it was handed over to the Darwin Aviation Museum, being housed in the new air-conditioned hanger built specially to display the aircraft - B52G #92596 now being renamed "Darwin's Pride".

Monday the 22^nd May was now Day Eight of my Darwin adventure and today I will be taking to the road for my journey back to Sydney. After serious consideration I decided it might be a sensible idea to attend the local Harley-Davidson dealer and have them change my engine oil/filter, plus check all drivetrain lubricants and generally give the bike a once over before leaving town. I made a quick phone call to Darwin Dynacycle (18 Stuart Highway, Stuart Park Tel:08-8981-7806) who said that' "yes' they could have a quick look at the bike if I dropped it in mid-morning". At 10:30am I rolled into Dynacycle's servicing section following earlier telephone instructions to seek the assistant manager, Steve. I soon found Steve Hancock who, after listening to my modest servicing needs, called over one of his Harley technicians and asked if he could start the job straight away. I unpacked the bike and Steve helped me carry my luggage into his office and made me quite comfortable during my wait. I remarked to Steve that because they'd probably need my bike for a couple of hours, would I be able to get a bus from around here to take me to Darwin's CBD where I could have a look around. Steve wouldn't hear of it, grabbed the keys to the company vehicle and said, "come on, I'll drop you up there". Despite my protests he couldn't be dissuaded and so, off we went. Well, Steve did drop me in the CBD eventually, but not until he'd taken me for a quick tour around the city and left me with strict instructions to (a) leave the bike with them for at least a couple of hours ( at least 12:45pm) and (b) "do you have a mobile phone with you. Here's my card, give me a call when you're ready and I'll pick you up". I don't mind telling you that as Steve Hancock drove away he left one customer standing on the side of the road with mouth agape - have I died and gone to service customer heaven? And please don't think it was because Darwin Dynacycle wasn't busy - their service workshop was full!

I made my own way back to Darwin Dynacycle and wandered into the Service Department to settle my account. They'd given the Ultra some good mechanical attention for the 4,000km ahead and I don't mind saying, the price was quite moderate.  At that stage I pulled the assistant manager of Darwin Dynacycle Mr Steve Hancock aside and told him my involvement with a website called Electra Glide Down Under and the Harley touring based theme associated with the site.  I thought to myself I'd already paid the bill and certainly wasn't after any discounts or free lunches at this stage.  I told Steve I'd not encountered customer service like they'd offered in a very long time.  Because of the fact I was a long way from home, it was both comforting and reassuring to know that business enterprises exist today where the touring motorcyclists knows they are going to be in good hands.

Folks, if ever you're touring in the Darwin area on your Harley-Davidson, drop into Darwin Dynacycle and say hi to the staff - they're damn good people.  To hell with it, I know my partner in Electra Glide Down Under, the young Paul Manson (concerned ecologist, tireless social worker, bon vivant and patron of the arts) won't mind this at all.  I bestow upon Mr Steve Hancock and the staff at Darwin Dynacycle the inaugural Electra Glide Down Under Golden Salute.

With the beastie purring away beneath me, at 1:30pm I watched in my rear vision mirrors as the outskirts and suburbs of Darwin faded away and once more I was back on the Stuart Highway, this time heading south towards Three Ways. The weather, a warm 30°C cloudless blue sky, traffic was quite light and I had the road pretty well to myself. Now where to today? I had about 4½ hours of sunlight remaining and from where I was at that stage I had about 400km (249 miles) to reach Mataranka Homestead and the thermal springs. Okay that's achievable, but I certainly don't have time to fart in the dust (literal translation: I don't have time to waste)! I made a fuel stop at Adelaide River (smoke and a bum break) and then a fuel top-up at Katherine (smoke, bum break but took the touring rider "wee wee" option as well).

A little after 6pm the welcome and by now familiar lights of Mataranka Homestead were before me and I circled the car-park, rode straight into the camping area and pitched my tent in the evening's twilight. Once I had Camp Barton-Burroughs (Mataranka) comfortably set up I headed off to the reception office to see if I was allowed to camp the night and pay my fee. I wonder what I would have done if they'd said no! Anyway, the rest of the evening was spent relaxing in the public area adjacent to the bistro and bar. I can highly recommend Mataranka Homestead and the thermal springs area for motorcycle touring accommodation. You can choose between motel and unit style suites, bunkhouses and overnight cabins, or pitch your tent in the camping area. Meals are available at the bistro from 7am to 8pm and the bar is open to 10pm, all within the public area where you can chat with travellers, play some pool or watch TV until you're ready for bed. And around 9:30pm I certainly was.

Tuesday the 23^rd May and Day Nine out of Sydney.  The day before I'd had an easy day (only 420km) and on this day I thought I'd probably have a similar one with only 580km to Three Ways Roadhouse.  Maybe I'd push on the further 187km (116 miles) to Barkly Roadhouse if time allows but I'd make that decision later in the day.  After breaking camp and packing the bike I retired to the shower block where I bathed the regal personage (that's all I'm going dwell on that subject) and then moved the beastie over to the main building where I treated myself to a healthy breakfast for the day ahead.  At precisely 0900hrs, after receiving clearance from Mataranka Tower Control, I lined the Ultra Classic up on runway 07 and pushed all main engine throttles to the wall.  The behemoth gave a slight shudder as her tyres released their grip on the tarmac and banked sharply over the township to the west.  I dipped my wings gallantly to say aloha to the young ladies waving below, the morning sun reflecting from the tears on their delicate cheeks.  Well actually I just rode out to the Stuart Highway and turned left to travel south - but it doesn't sounds anywhere near as exciting!

What can I say about Tuesday? Not a lot. Again it was just a distance covering exercise and the towns/roadhouses of Larrimah, Daly Waters, Dunmarra and Elliott just drifted by as I continued southwards. Around mid afternoon I wheeled into the roadhouse at Renner Springs and parking in the shade, I retrieved the ever-faithful water bottle from my luggage. I'd noticed a Goldwing 1500 parked a short distance away and was soon joined by its rider, an older fellow Ulysses member out of South Australia. We talked a while, shared reports on road and traffic conditions and then finally bid each other a safe trip as he rode out of Renner Springs to head north.

Further over near the Roadhouse I spied another motorcycle, this time a Guzzi California with trailer hitched up behind, the rider busying himself with packing items on the bike. I wandered over, struck up a conversation with the male rider and we were soon joined by his pillion. Well, little was I to know that at Renner Springs I was to become acquainted with two of the nicest people you could ever hope to ride with - Ulysses members Brian and Chris Preston of Cairns, Queensland. Within a space of 20 minutes conversation I could tell the Prestons were the sort of people one could always feel comfortable with and enjoy travelling with. Like me, they were travelling towards Queensland and their plans for the day had been to head as far as Three Ways. However, they weren't sure whether Three Ways had camping facilities and, if they did, what standard they were. I assured them that Three Ways Roadhouse had good camping facilities and I had considered staying there myself that evening. Well, to cut a long story short, I made Three Ways by 4pm and was joined a short time later by Brian and Chris. I set up Camp Barton-Burroughs (Three Ways), once more bathed my svelte frame for the day and then withdrew to the roadhouse where I enjoyed coffee and conversation with the Prestons until a late hour. But finally, I retreated to my tent where I poked up the cat, wound up the fireplace and put out the clock (I think I got that in the right order?)

Three Ways Junction, Northern Territory

Chris & Brian Preston, great travelling companions

Camp Barton-Burroughs (Three Ways)

Day Ten of my epic adventure, Wednesday the 24^th May and a splendid morning had dawned with scattered cloud and a brilliant rising sun - the cloud cover would be burned away by mid morning. With the Prestons I broke camp and we packed our respective bikes for the day, ran the bikes across to the roadhouse and replenished the fuel tanks. Brian and Chris intended starting the day with a reasonable breakfast but myself, after having a snack the evening before, would probably wait until I'd covered a couple of hundred kilometres before I succumbed to my tummy's demands. After exchanging our addresses, with strict and genuine instructions to seek each other if ever in Sydney or Cairns, the Prestons retreated to the roadhouse diner and I motored slowly out of Three Ways - turning left to travel east on the Barkly Highway.

Click here for Part Three of the story