The 1999 Tumut Charity Ride: Part 2

Tuesday morning the 23rd November opened with more broken cloud and the sun trying hard to break through.  By the time we packed the bikes for the day ahead the storm clouds had moved in - so we dressed for another wet one!  Turning south out of Halls Gap we rode the 70km (44 miles) through the National Park to Dunkeld.  Even in the cold, light rain with visibility down to about 1km you could still enjoy the grandeur of the Park.  Suitably attired to stave off the uncomfortable weather, and with Mike Oldfield's Tubular Bells resonating through the headset, the Ultra just chugged along at a respectable 80kph (50mph) on the wet road.   Leaving the southern end of the Park we descended into southwest Victoria's dairy and sheep farming region, with this part of Australia being magnificent with undulating countryside of the most fertile, green paddocks stretching on forever.

Our plan for the day had always been to travel southwards through the Grampians, then continue due south down to the coast at Warrnambool.   From there we would turn east and follow the coast into Melbourne, taking in the Great Ocean Road along the way.  The G.O.R. rates as probably Australia's premier motorcycling road where seemingly endless curves have been hewn from the rugged coastal headlands in nothing short of an engineering marvel.  As a matter of fact, in some publications, the G.O.R. rates up there amongst the world's top ten destinations for adventure seeking motorcyclists.  I've travelled the Road on two previous occasions and was certainly looking forward to this visit.

But as we continued south we realised the weather was trying its hardest to beat us.  The rain had increased to a constant downpour and the heavy winds off the Southern Ocean surpassed discomfort and started to present dangerous riding conditions.  We turned south-eastwards in an attempt to skirt the worst of the weather but it didn't seem to make much difference.  The further we travelled south the worst the conditions became.  In pouring rain we pulled into a diner, in the small farming town of Mortlake, where we decided to break for an early lunch and make some decisions.   Following a welcome warm meal, the maps came out over coffee and a smoke and we took a practical look at our options.   The further we headed south, the conditions were deteriorating more and more.   We were still about 50km (30 miles) from the coast and it was no point going any further south.  However, Glenn felt that he'd come this far and wasn't going to miss the Great Ocean Road when it was so close.  Undaunted as ever he was going to continue on to the coast.

Early afternoon and the decision was made by Malcolm, Lisa and myself to head across country about 300km (186 miles), to the east of Melbourne, and into the Dandenong region.  At the moment, the weather in this part of the world was decidedly miserable and it couldn't be any worse to the east.  If the weather was still bad to the east of Melbourne we could always find accommodation for the night and head north, back into NSW the following day.  We bid Glenn farewell as he headed off to the south and we mounted up to ride towards Geelong, then onto Melbourne. Attired in rain suit with thermal jacket over the top, including leather gloves with rain mittens, I felt outfitted like an Apollo astronaut as we headed out of Mortlake into cold, pouring rain.  A 150km (93 mile) ride through bleak conditions and two hours later we pulled into Geelong for a warm coffee and a bum break.  From there we prepared to tackle the afternoon traffic through Melbourne and head up to Healesville, in the northern Dandenongs, where we'd look for overnight accommodation.

We entered the southwest of Melbourne at "rush-hour" and, as Healesville was to the northeast of the city, we had to diagonally traverse the metropolitan area at the worst time of day.  But I must say Melbourne's road system is quite good (compared to Sydney) and we had a reasonable run with the afternoon traffic.  Eventually, we left the traffic lights behind and as the traffic thinned after Lilydale we travelled along the Maroondah Highway and into open rural countryside.  Late in the afternoon we pulled into Healesville and after checking the local tourist information board in town, we made our way to the Badger's Creek Caravan Park.  About 30 minutes after we arrived, following mobile phone contact at regular intervals for directions, Glenn rolled into the Caravan Park.  He reported that he'd encountered improved weather on the coast and that we'd certainly missed an opportunity.  Oh well, there's always next year for the GOR and a good excuse to ride back down into one of my favourite Australian regions.  After a long, wet 500+km (300+mile) day we settled into a cabin and relaxed.  The six berth cabin wasn't exactly the Hilton but it offered all basic amenities and at $20 a head for the night, who's complaining.  The tourist information board had rated Badger's Creek as 4� star caravan/cabin accommodation.  However, I wasn't particularly impressed with the facilities when compared against what's available throughout Australia... but that comes down to personal choice doesn't it?

Wednesday morning the 24th November dawned overcast and grey.  Oh well, here we go again!  But don't despair dear reader, as the sun rose and started to warm the countryside the light cloud dissipated and we were looking at blue sky for the first time in days.  We packed the bikes and by the time we rolled out at 9:00am it was turning into a glorious day.  The Ultra motored gently through Healesville and back onto the Maroondah Highway.  She had served me well over 2,000km (1243 miles) in the last four days, through some bloody horrible weather, and had never missed a beat.  Today's going to be a great day and I'll give the bike an easy pace, she's earned it!  Laid back, listening to some good music with the Electra Glide ticking over at a lazy trot.

This area, known as the Dandenongs, is a mountainous region bordering the eastern side of Melbourne and the area is quite relaxing to spend a couple of days exploring.  It's essentially a farming district and local holiday destination for Melbournians, with vineyards, dairy farms, orchards and tourist facilities tucked into the hills.   Today's ride would take us along the Maroondah Highway, through the rainforest region over Black Spur and into the Goulburn Valley where we'd make our way to Mansfield.

Malcolm, Lisa and Glenn stopped for fuel before departing Healesville, but I continued onwards at a slow pace intending to have the others catch up.  A couple of kilometres out of town I saw a sign off to the left, leading into Selover's Lookout.  I pulled into the parking area and was presented with a spectacular vista over the local reservoir and nearby pine forests.  (Mark that down on your itinerary if you're heading for the Dandenongs.)   The lookout was right beside the Highway and pretty soon I was joined by the others.  A couple of photos later we mounted the bikes to head off.  Glenn took the lead on the VFR as the next 50km was sports bike country.  I left next at my moderate pace expecting Malcolm and Lisa to soon overtake me.  About 10km (6 miles) up the rode I pulled over to photograph a rainforest setting and packed the camera back into the Tour Pak, thinking.... hmmm.... the Beemer should have caught up by now.  Well, maybe they're taking some photos too?  A cigarette break and by now I was getting a little concerned.  There's only one road in this direction and they haven't come past.   Back I go!

Malcolm & Lisa dreaming of sunnier days

We finally arrive in Healesville

Selover's Lookout (northern view)

Selover's Lookout (south-westerly view)

Well, the poor buggers hadn't even left Selover's Lookout.  They'd mounted up ready to ride out and as Malcolm pressed the gear lever to select first, the lever just swung down underneath the bike.  A quick check underneath revealed a main bolt had come loose from the gear selector mechanism, which caused the gear lever to swing free.  Some riders would no doubt have carried out a roadside repair job, which may have temporarily fixed the problem.  But Malcolm is fastidious regarding maintenance and rigidly follows the manufacturer's warranty program.  After all, these machines aren't cheap and the K1200LT was only six months old.  Plus, we were still about 800km (500 miles) from home by the shortest route!  Out with the mobile phone, a quick call to BMW Australia and 45 minutes later a vehicle with trailer turned up to ship the bike to the nearest BMW dealership.  Why the hell would you worry about roadside repairs when you can have that sort of service?   Sure, another time and in a more remote location your assessment would result in a different course of action.  About two hours later we were on our way again with the BMW technicians, including a well tooled workshop, only being able to effect a temporary repair which would be completed by the dealership in Sydney.  But we felt more confident the Beemer was OK for the trip ahead.

We continued along the Maroondah Highway, through the magnificent rainforest area of Black Spur and onwards to a welcome break in Alexandra.  From there we skirted Lake Eildon, through Bonnie Doon and onto Mansfield.  The Goulburn Valley has some great cruising roads with a bit of sports bike territory thrown in.  However, if you're more the cruising rider and want to see some great country on your Glide or Road King, don't miss this part of Oz.  If you're heading from Melbourne to Sydney take the Maroondah Highway (H153) northeast out of Melbourne and follow it into Mansfield.  After Mansfield you can follow H153, known as the Midland Highway from here, till it joins the Hume Highway near Benalla.

Black Spur rainforest

Maroondah Highway

Goulburn Valley near Alexandra

If you're into Australian bushranging folklore this is right in the middle of Ned Kelly country.  All of these towns - Mansfield, Benalla, Glenrowan - even as far north as Jerilderie in NSW featured prominent in the Kelly Gang history.  To the east is Beechworth where a young Ned spent time in its gaol for horse-stealing.  One of these days I'll return to Mansfield and visit Stringybark Creek in the Wombat Ranges, to the northeast of Mansfield.  There, on the 26th October 1878, the lives of three police troopers (Kennedy, Scanlon and Lonigan) ended in a shootout with the Kelly Gang.  Of course, you can always visit Glenrowan where the final stand was made by the Kelly Gang in a shootout with a large police contingent.   If you're an overseas visitor to this website and haven't heard of the Kelly Gang, you can find information at http://www.nedkellysworld.com.au/.

Well, I won't bore you with details of the trip's closing stages other than to say it was a very pedestrian journey back up the Hume Highway into Sydney over the next day.  Three days of poor weather conditions meant this trip would not be recorded in the annals as one of the best ones.  The K1200LT's breakdown had not been a major mishap and had only caused a minor hiccup.  But, hey, we take the good with the bad don't we?  For every trip like this there are always the great ones!

The Ultra proved faultless for the 2,850km (1,770 miles) over the previous six days and if you're considering long distance touring on your Electra Glide or Road King, seriously think about investing in a rider backrest.   Absolutely brilliant, very comfortable and, preventing you from slouching throughout a long day, you finish a day's ride with no hint of backache.  The backrest support bracket has four adjustment positions fore and aft, with three positions for backrest height.  With twelve potential adjustment positions, before a long ride, do a few day trips to get the adjustment right for your size and riding posture.

Now that we've been back a while and I've clocked up a few more kilometres, the Ultra is not far off its first major 16,000km (10,000 mile) service.  I'll have to replace the original Dunlop MT90 back tyre at 16,000km but the MT90 front will last to the next service at 20,000km.  I don't think that's bad tyre wear for a bike this size and I'll replace them with Dunlops.  Oh, incidentally, the bike didn't use a drop of oil in the 2,850km interstate trip and average fuel consumption was a very respectable:-

• 19.6 kilometres per litre,

• 5.1 litres per 100km, or

• 46.1 miles per gallon (U.S.)

The fuel economy figure gives an idea of how lightly I tend to twist the throttle.  Anyway that's about all for now, I hope you enjoyed the story, so until I report on the next trip please enjoy safe long-distance Electra Glide touring.

The End

Be sure to read the next adventure
"Darwin For Dinner" (The Colonel Heads North)

Copyright text Colonel Edmund Barton-Burroughs (2010).  Copyright images Ms Kylie Minogue (2010).  All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and copyright holders.