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Photo Blog
Join me on my discoveries in photography.
As I learn new skills, I will post my findings here. If you want to check
out my kit and other links, take a look at my
favorite photos page. My interest in photography goes back to
black and white film with pinhole cameras, creating ghosting effects and
double exposures. I also played with enlargers and dark rooms in primary
school. My interest peaked again almost 20 years later. Photos I want to take: Water in motion Car with trailing tail lights More to come ... Photo RSS Feed
from Flickr My Flickr Groups
I have a
Canon EOS 350F with the normal Canon filter removed and a glass
filter for 720nm replaced. From here, the photos are passed through
Photoshop and then ready for viewing.
January, 30 2011
Robert Tremethick has bought a 400 class train
and wants to have originals of photos of mine from Flickr. A privilege to
supply these.
January, 27 2011
Eric Goodwin from McClatchy-Tribune Information
Services (MCT) wants my red back spider photos. It is a pleasure to be able
to provide photos.
I have created an LED light spinner and am
playing with light painting.
I have built my own Coke Can diffuser. It is
for macro shots. It is made from 2x 375 ml coke cans. Check out the
details here.
Get published! LENSBABY CALL FOR SUBMISSIONS. Submit
your best Lensbaby photos for a chance to be published in a new
Lensbaby book by Lensbaby Guru Corey
Ever played with a lensbaby? Selective focus is fun.
It is hard to come to grips with focusing the 50 mm lens but the
curious effects make the process worthwhile.
Ok so the nail
biting is over. The top 10 in each brief has been announced. I am a
little unsure about the choice of finalists. Some do not match the
brief, some are not technically good photos. I understand the judges
jobs are hard but I feel seriously let down by the final selections.
Check out my entries:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mickyj_photos/sets/72157622799924960/ Ok, so
it is all over ... Not. Canon extended the deadline as no one could
upload their images. Here is the blog
http://community.canon.com.au/blogs/eos/archive/2009/11/02/canon-eos-photo5-competition-site-is-back-on-track.aspx Aaagghhhhhh!
Competition ends Nov 1 and I can't upload my hard work. Stupid
DotNet error. I suspect the Canon server ran out of room?
Why did I leave it until the 11th hour to submit ?
Not all the judges had uploaded their hints yet. I wanted to see
what others were doing, did not want to give away what I was doing
and I wanted to use their hints.
Server Error in '/worldofeos/photo5' Application. You
will not be hearing much from me. Every spare minute and weekend I
will be taking photos for the Canon Competition. About 2000 boxes
have gone out and I am lucky enough to have one.
For more information see http://www1.canon.com.au/worldofeos/photo5 To set up a low
key shot, get yourself a dark background. It doesn’t have to be
black, though most low key images you see do have a black
background. But anything dark will do. Next, get your subject in
some dark clothing. Again, it doesn’t have to be black, just dark.
What this will do is put emphasis on your subject’s face.
Low key light accentuates the contours of an
object by throwing areas into shade while a fill light or reflector
may illuminate the shadow areas to control contrast. The relative
strength of key-to-fill, known as the lighting ratio, can be
measured using a light meter. Low key lighting has a higher lighting
ratio, e.g. 8:1, than high key lighting, which can approach 1:1. Study in freezing
the action of smoke. I have
been inspired to try something new. I have a Canon 50mm, 1.8 lens. I
have fitted to this a home made light filter in the shape of a
heart. By focusing on an object close and setting the camera
aperture to wide open, the lights in the rear become out of focus
and the shape of my heart filter. For more information look at the
following links:
http://www.diyphotography.net/diy_create_your_own_bokeh
http://forums.atomicmpc.com.au/index.php?showtopic=20679 I have been using a
"generic" lens doubler. This gives me 2X magnification of my lens.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mickyj_photos/3712403190/ I thought it was about
time I mentioned Dust Bunnies. Spots of dust that can ruin your
photos. Take a look at my discussion
here. Time-lapse has
always been something on my mind. I never really saw an opportunity
for it and as fate would have it, I had the perfect opportunity for
a time-lapse, a house being demolished. Unfortunately I had to work
so I did not get a real chance to do a time lapse of the
destruction. I did get a chance to play linked here is the result.
(Image to the right). It is only a short time-lapse. I do not have a
remote timer for the camera so I had a laptop hooked in via USB and
was running the Canon EOS utility. The camera's battery went flat so
I just gave up and compiled what I had, with QuickTime. I have always struggled with
wide angle shots. I don't have a full frame camera and even with
lenses at 18 mm, it is not really wide angle enough for me. Enter
the Fish eye, Ultra wide lens add on for the Canon range of lenses.
With this little beauty I can get a full 180 degree range. On my
18mm lens I can get the fish eye effect but anything larger and the
distortion looks weird. Now I just need to play with it. Today I
have ventured into the unknown. I was given an Olympus OM2 and OM10.
Both are film based cameras with manually adjusted lenses. I thought
my toughest battle was buying a Canon EOS 1D without any automatic
features. I had to learn to be a real photographer. That still had
auto focus. Now I have manual focus lenses. I have purchased a
Olympus OM-EOS Adapter with AF-Enabling Pin so I could fit the
lenses to my EOS range of cameras. I wanted to see if the lenses
were superior to the Canon consumer lenses. This is where the fun
starts. Getting the OM-EOS adaptor to work includes some acrobatics
with the EOS DOF feature (To set the Aperture value and Focal
length). Then you need to change the settings when you change values
for the Zoom lenses.
Here's what I ended up with: A very nice kit. I
have concluded the Panowider super wide is useless on the Canon
EOS 10D/30D/1D as they are not full frame. The Canon EFS 18-55
does a better job than the OS 50mm with the Panowider fitted.
The Tamron BBAR Multi C (The BBAR Multi C describes the
protective coating on the lens) is not so flash but I am liking
the Vivitor / Tonkina. The EOS seems to work well with these
using the OM-EOS adaptor. Take a number of photos of
an action scene that passes parallel in front of you. Paste the
various images back into one image to show the passing of time. Put the camera in
Aperture Priority mode, and then use the camera's command wheel to
set the aperture to it's largest setting (f/1.8 is the widest aperture that that
my lens can support). When the lens is indeed, "wide open" like that, it
will gather a lot of light, and allow you to shoot at a higher
shutter speed. It also means that you'll get a very shallow depth of
field (Dof).
When you pan you’re moving your camera in
synchronicity with your subject as it moves parallel to you. Proper
panning implies motion. However, panning creates the feeling of
motion and speed without blurring the subject as a slow shutter
speed sans panning would tend to do. The actual shutter speed depends on the speed of
the subject but generally it will be 1/200th or slower. 1/200th if
your subject is really flying along, like a speeding car on a race
track, and maybe as slow as 1/40th of a second if your subject is a
runner on a track.
This
process can turn moving water into a ghostly apportion. Typically
leaving the shutter open for 1 - 2 seconds. Exposure set to 4
seconds and Shutter Sync set to 2nd curtain in the cameras custom
features. This process is how you get trailing lights ion cars at
night.
Experiment based on
an excellent tutorial over on the digital photography school
about ‘Darkening with Light’. Inspired by the images that seem to
have no background whatsoever, and interested in the notion of
creating an interesting effect in bad lighting situations I
thought I would give it a try. It worked out very well. Exposure: 1/250 of a second. Using a Canon EOS 30D in Manual mode, 18-55 mm lens. External wireless cactus trigger
and a studio light (150W Modeling, 600 W flash). Taken in Raw mode.
Exploring the world
with an extension tube macro ring attached to a normal wide angle
lens. This was very hard to use as it enlarges very small, very
specific sections and getting focus is very hard.
To prevent
vibration at night, long exposures, I experimented with mirror
lockup (Custom feature on my Canon 30D). This process locks the
mirror up, avoiding camera movement, when the actual shit is taken.
Be careful, don't use this when pointing at the sun. You might
damage your CCD.
There are some photos that no matter
what you see nor how hard you try, you just can't capture what you
see. This is where HDR comes in. Using Helicon Focus. 7 photos of various focal lengths. All 7 photos
had a point of focus but the final image appears almost fully focused.
Taking a photo from one eye, not moving
your head, lining up the second shot with the other eye then
composing with Callipygian 3D using the Anaglyph method (View with
red/blue glasses).
Sutter set to first curtain.
External speed light. The flash illuminates close objects whilst the
long exposure brings the rest of the background into the image.
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